Each pleat requires the manufacture of a pleating loom or “mould”: two sheets of cardboard folded identically.

 

SAVOIR-FAIRE

Each pleat requires the manufacture of a pleating loom or “mould”: two sheets of cardboard folded identically.

Thinking, creating and manufacturing a craft is meticulous work. Technology now makes it possible to automatically trace, on the cardboard, the geometry of the folds which must then be broken by hand so that the sheets fit together perfectly and can mark their pattern on the fabric. 

To create the pleat, we stretch the first sheet of the mold on which we gently place the fabric and then we cover it with the second sheet adjusting them perfectly. All that remains is to tighten the "loom", strap it with wooden clamps and then put it in an oven heated to around 100°C.

After an hour in the oven comes the crucial moment of unmolding: the fabric is revealed in its new form.

All our pleated and skirt prototypes are created and made in France, production is made in Spain. 

 

*** photo of the pleating loom taken at Ateliers Lognon, at 19 M.

 

PLEATS AND MATERIALS 

The fold is the architecture that gives the spirit of the garment, the fabric is the material that sublimates the structure. The choice of the fold is essential: it gives its volume to the fabric, marries the material and creates the identity of the piece. 

Only polyester is able to keep the crease intact for decades.To guarantee a top-of-the-range, durable and easy-care garment, Carole works with the best polyesters. His choice fell on a Japanese fabric combining several essential characteristics for the design of an exceptional pleat: a technical fiber capable of keeping the pleat intact, an impeccable hand that hugs the body, a fabric that adapts to each season. 

The fabric is laser cut cleanly. Thus, the Lostenn pieces are freed from hems and the pleating is freely expressed, offering the garment even more fluidity. 

For her first collection, Carole chose to work with three types of folds. 

The sun pleat that widens in the shape of a fan and opens like a corolla. Narrow at the top, the pleats widen at the bottom, evoking the rays of the sun. 

The flat folds are a succession of folds that go in the same direction. 

The Watteau folds are two flat folds that face each other, forming a "hollow fold". 

 

*** photo n°1, taken at Ateliers Lognon, at 19 M.